Wood’n Bits Workshop

General Woodworking and the Creation of Miniatures from Wood

Asymmetric Tenons for a Glass Cabinet Door

A typical frame-and-panel door consists of a set of rails and styles held together with mortise and tenon joints.  The center wood panel, whether raised or not, is held in a slot cut at the mid-thickness of the frame pieces.   To do this cleanly one typically uses a haunched tenon.

But I found myself needing wood-framed glass doors.  Because of the potential for the glass to be broken and there must be a means to replace it.  In a modern world, most people build the mortise-tenon frame and then run a router around the inside of the frame, routing a rabbet for the glass insert.  I’ve done this more than a few times myself.

I was thinking about how to do it with hand tools and came to the conclusion that I had to cut a stopped rabbet in each of the mortised rails and wondered what the best method would be of making them .   I queried the guys who hang out in the Sawmill Creek “Neanderthal” group, knowing their expertise always exceeds my own.  As expected, I was rewarded with several good approaches.

The best idea, however, came from Bob Roziaeski, who operates the Logan Cabinet Shoppe. His advice was “avoid doing any stopped rabbets” and he showed me how.  He suggested cutting simple rabbets along both rails and styles and then to use asymmetric tenons.   It took my two neurons a while to absorb this idea but Bob was right (he usually is) – this is a great solution.

By cutting the tenon such that one side is cut to allow it to accommodate the rabbet wall as it enters the mortise, the desired goal is achieved, neatly, and most important, easily.  Besides, the tenons look cool.

Here I’m cutting the deeper side of the tenon.  You can see that the more shallow side has already been cut.

Here’s the resultant tenon.  I apologize to Mike Wenzloff for the ragged saw cut.  It’s not the fault of the saw but, I think, due to my starting and stopping the cut as I shot photos of the cutting process.  Or, I was just being sloppy.  You choose.

Chopping the mortise is done in typical fashion.  I’ll mention one small difference I experienced.  Having the rabbet wall next to the mortise should make it easier to cut the mortise walls straight but I found exactly the opposite to be the case.  I guess it was that I was concerned about bruising the wall but the result was that I had to trim up the inner mortise wall more than I normally would have to do.

Here are the doors, in a dry assembly.  I haven’t yet trimmed up the mortises and a couple of the tenons are too tight for my tastes but I’m pleased with the results.  Thanks again to Bob for yet another great woodworking lesson.

Cheers — Larry

larry@woodnbits.com


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Larry

Comments

4 Responses to “Asymmetric Tenons for a Glass Cabinet Door”

  1. The doors look great Larry! Glad that it worked out for you. Excellent diagrams and explanation as well. I must learn to do some better computer drawing myself. My diagrams always look so boring and confusing. Being able to add color variation and shadowing makes the drawings so much clearer. What software are you using to make the drawings?

  2. Larry says:

    Thanks, Bob, and thanks too for dropping by.

    I adopted SketchUp as my tool of choice 9-10 months ago. I’ve had experience with several CAD programs and they’re great but most of what I need are not engineering drawings. SketchUp allows one to easily do design work (woodworking style) as well as creating graphics such as those you see in my blog. The other big plus is that there is a tremendous amount of online support in the form of tutorials and the 3D warehouse where you can pick up lots of pre-made drawings.

    Cheers — Larry

  3. Shannon says:

    Larry,

    I’m a little confused or maybe I’m missing a step. After you cut the tenons and mortises then you then go back and run a rabbet on the inside of the stiles. I’m guessing you didn’t include that in the sketchup model. Am I seeing this right?

  4. [...] seems I was a bit spartan in my word use in my asymmetric tenon post, leaving much to be desired in terms of [...]

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